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Choosing The Best Bit For A Young Horse
When starting a young horse, (or when riding any horse for that matter) the two most important and influential pieces of tack are in my opinion, the saddle and the bit. The saddle is important for obvious reasons, but the bit often seems to be overlooked as being an equally important piece of equipment. The bit is one of the primary means of communication with your horse in his early years, and whilst the rider is always working towards the primary use of legs and seat, with horses being flighty creatures there will always be occasions when the bit will play an important roll!
The selection of the first bits can shape the horses whole riding career, a bad experience at the beginning may set up a lifetime of resistance. Some horses are more sensitive than others, and while one horse may be ridden in an unsuitable bit and tolerate it with no consequences, another more sensitive equine may take longer to resolve issues caused by a badly fitting or chosen bit. The very first bit you put in your horses mouth should be inoffensive and warm. It also should ideally not have large rings or be of a cheek style that could easily catch or hurt the horse, as his first instinct may be to try and rub his mouth on anything he can to remove the offending article! For example, a suitable bit would be a nylon loose ring snaffle. It is inexpensive to buy, with a nylon mullen mouth so it is warm and a mullen mouth so it is comfortable, with no moving parts to pinch or scare the horse. The rings are also very small and neat so there s minimal chance of getting caught up.
The next step is the choice of bit as the first bit for backing and riding away. The nylon snaffle is not suitable for this purpose, as the mouthpiece is not reinforced, and the small rings may drag through the horses mouth when asking for a turn. I would always recommend the use of a double jointed bit, which does not have the nutcracker action of a single joint, which can pinch the bars ad lips as well as hitting the palette- not a pleasant first experience! A double joint will lay neatly in the horses mouth and allow room for the horses tongue, giving the horses a feeling of freedom and not restriction. This mouthpiece should not be too thick- a thick bit is not as kind as you would think, the only advantage being a larger bearing surface. This is outweighed by not allowing enough room for the tongue, and often they can be responsible for causing lip splitting- especially in young tender lips. Plastic mouthpieces also have a habit of causing friction burns if the horse snatches or the bit is pulled through the horses mouth quickly – a distinct possibility with a mouthy youngster! The mouthpiece should ideally be made of a pleasant tasting metal, e.g. copper or sweet iron, as this will encourage the horse to relax his jaw and ‘make a mouth’ in other words to produce saliva to keep his mouth soft, comfortable and responsive.
Lastly, cheek selection is less obvious, as it is partly dependent on the ability of the rider. A loose ring is ideal as it gives a lot of sensitivity and movement, allowing for good communication, but this can work against you if you are inexperienced and have less stable hands. The horse in this case will feel every little vibration via the rein and could become agitated rather than relaxed. A full cheek is a good choice for a novice rider/novice horse as it helps encourage the horse to turn by applying pressure to the cheek if the horse does not turn with gentle pressure on the rein, and the solid style of the cheek is less sensitive to rider movement. For a more experienced rider, a fulmer may be used as you have the advantage of the loose ring for finer communication if steering is still an issue.
Examples of bits I would recommend are the French link or lozenge snaffle, but I especially like the Sprenger KK ultra bits, as they have been designed with the horses anatomy in mind using a patented material called Aurigan for the mouthpiece. This metal vastly improves the palatability and mouthing properties of the bit. They also have an angled lozenge designed to sit perfectly on the horses tongue to provide optimum communication whilst keeping the horse relaxed and attentive. It must however be remembered that every horse is an individual, and conformation and temperament play a big part in finding the most suitable bit for your horse.
We always advise our customers on the choice of bit and offer a hire service, to ensure the correct bit is found before a second mortgage is needed! It must be remembered that the any bit is only as good as the hands that are using it, but finding the right bit for your horse can make the most enormous difference to how much of his true potential he will eventually fulfil.
Feeding the Performance Horse
The horse is a natural athlete. He is strong, agile and swift. His strength is so superior to that of man that we describe the thrust of our high powered engines in terms of horse power. Yet, the grace and beauty of the horse surpasses that of a ballet dancer. As caregivers, it is up to us to keep our equine partners healthy by providing them with the vital nutrients needed to perform in a human world that differs so dramatically from their own.
Most horse owners have a basic understanding of how to feed a horse. We know that dietary consistency is essential, since the slightest change in feed or feeding routine can often upset the equine digestive system. We know that any variance in the feeding protocol should be limited and introduced slowly to minimize the negative effects of frequent, rapidly applied change. When change is necessary, we rely on information from trusted sources and past experience for guidance. We are careful to make the most appropriate choices from the abundance of available dietary additives. We are aware that any change in feeding protocol will have a profound impact on the performance of our horses. Most experts agree that a diet of hay, grain, water and salt will provide the basic nutritional needs of most horses. We will now consider each of these individually.
Book:The Catalyst Horse Racing System
First and foremost is hay, also referred to as forage. Since the horse is a grazing animal by nature, forage should be the main component of the diet. It is, therefore, important to buy the best possible hay available within your budget. A good grass or grass/legume mix, fed at 1.5% body weight (approximately 15 lbs hay/1000 lbs) per day is usually the best choice for horses. This may vary depending upon the overall health of the horse, how well the horse maintains its weight, the activity level of the horse, and current weather conditions. For example, horses that suffer from ulcers may respond better to a grass/alfalfa mix because of the calming effect of this mix on the stomach. In some areas, a selenium supplement may be added to the diet due to a lack of this mineral in the hay source.
Grain plays an important, yet complex, role in the equine feeding protocol. Oats were historically the favored grain for horses. Now, however, horse owners rely heavily on grain combinations, often referred to as sweet feed. These usually consist of oats, corn, vitamins and minerals bound together with molasses for palatability. It is vitally important to understand that excess protein in the diet increases heat production. Since this excess heat can notably impede performance horses, care must be taken when determining the appropriate amount of daily grain. Adding carbohydrates and fats to the daily diet is the best way to counteract a lack of energy due to nutritional deficits. Of these, the preferred choice should be fats. Fats produce 2.5 times more energy per pound than carbohydrates, while decreasing heat load. Research shows that horses fed 10% added fat will reduce their daily heat load by 5%.(1) Fats can be increased by adding oils to the horse’s grain. A good choice is corn oil, since horses generally like the taste and there is the added benefit of improved skin and coat.
Water and salt are both vital elements of the performance horse diet. It is imperative that all horses, and especially performance horses, have unlimited access to fresh water. Fresh water keeps the horse hydrated, aids in digestion, and helps to prevent colic. Salt helps to balance the system by slowing dehydration caused by sweating. A simple salt block is the easiest way to replenish salt lost during exercise. A more complete choice is a mineral block. These not only replace salt, but other vitamins and minerals as well, eliminating the need to add supplements that may affect palatability to the grain. Mineral blocks are also a good source of selenium for those localities lacking this mineral in the hay source.
While many factors may necessitate a change in the performance horse diet, the most common reasons for modification are environmental conditions, health related issues and training schedules. Exposure to excessively warm temperatures may require a decrease in the heat load of the horse, as discussed above. Colder weather may require an increase in the heat load, which can be achieved by an increase in carbohydrates. Feed modification may also be necessary due to certain health issues, like pregnancy or aging. Any changes in feeding or care due to health issues should be discussed with your veterinarian to determine the best course of action. The timing of feedings can also affect performance and should be determined by how hard the horse will be working. For example, withholding grain up to 4 hours prior to exercise can help facilitate blood flow to muscles rather than the digestive system.
In conclusion, the feeding protocol for the performance horse profoundly impacts its ability to perform. While we, as horse owners, have a basic understanding of the overall nutritional needs of our horses, diligence is required to ensure that an appropriate feeding regimen is maintained. Hay/forage and water are primary essentials. The preferred hay for horses is a grass or grass/legume mixture, although other combinations, like a grass/alfalfa mix, can be beneficial in special situations. Daily fresh water, which aids in digestion and helps prevent dehydration and colic, must be readily accessible. Along with forage and water, most equine diets now include a combination of grains and supplements. A sweet feed of oats, corn, vitamins and minerals combined with molasses is the most common. Occasionally, it may be necessary to supplement normal feedings with additional minerals, like selenium, that may be lacking naturally in the home environment of the horse. This can be accomplished by providing a simple mineral block which contains salt and essential minerals. In addition to what we feed, when we feed is equally important. The timing of feedings, especially prior to exercise, helps ensure that blood flow is directed to the muscles rather than the digestive system. This article is intended to provide general information on the creation of an appropriate dietary protocol for the performance horse. Your veterinarian is the best source of guidance when determining the specific dietary needs of your horse, as he/she is familiar with both your horse and the environmental factors of your area that may impact your horse’s performance.
Book:The Catalyst Horse Racing System
How to Take Care of Your Horse
1 - Every day that you go out to [[Prepare to Ride a Horse|ride your horse]] .They need to be [[Groom-a-Horse|groomed]]. First check them over from head to toe to make sure they have no swellings or cuts, a little scrape is fine as long as it is not too deep or big.
2 - When you are done checking him or her over start your grooming routine. They would need to be curried, have their mane and tail brushed, have their [[Pick-a-Horse-Hoof|hooves picked]], and they need to be brushed with a Hard brush and then a soft one.
3 -Next comes the [[Saddle-a-Horse|saddle]] and [[Bridle-a-Horse|bridle]]. First get your needed tack, then put the saddle pad on your horse. Next comes the saddle. Tighten the [[Tighten-a-Girth-on-a-Difficult-Horse|girth]] and check to make sure the saddle fits. Then put the reins over your horse's head and put the bit in their mouth. If they toss their head up either get an older taller person to help you or place your hand over their forehead then bridle them. Check all the straps and lead them to your riding area.
4 - Next check the girth again, some horses like to puff out their chest when you put the girth on. Roll down the stirrups, both of the stirrups (individually) should be as long as your arm. Mount your horse!
5 - Exercise is important! It is how horses stay in shape.You may ride your horse as long as you would like but gradually increase the time so it does not become sore, If you plan to ride more then 2 hours make sure you stop to give it a drink and breaks.A horse is okay to ride in an arena all the time, But if you ride/show all the time then stick them in a stall they will become ring-sour.
6 - Then take the tack off them and give them a drink. Never let them drink too much or they can become sickly. If they are still wet consider hosing them off if it is above 52 degrees Fahrenheit. If you do hose them off use a sweat scraper to get rid of the excess water. If your horse is afraid of the hose use a wet sponge to rinse them off. They will most likely roll, That's okay, it's normal!
7 - Make sure that once you take off the saddle and blanket, you brush under the chest were the girth is. It is very important that you brush there because horses can get a sore if not cared for properly. Push your body against the horse just like you would if you were picking their hoof. Lightly scrub the girth. (the should usually be a mark there) Don't scrub too hard, It could hurt your horse.
8 - Their stalls will also need to be tended to. Use shavings, straw, or what works best for you. Get a pitchfork and a bucket and empty all the manure into the bucket. Get the wet spots also. Make sure you get all of the wet spots as they can smell terrible! But your horse doesn't need a stall to survive, they live just fine in the pasture!
9 - Check that your horse has fresh water and their water bucket is clean. Feed them as necessary. Talk to the previous owner(s) about how much you feed them, what you feed them, and how often. Try to keep their diet as simple as possible (remember, all wild horses have is grass!), stuff like grass hay and clean oats is good for them and can reduce the chance of colic. Make sure it has a good sized field for them to go eat grass.
Train Your Horse & Cure Bad Habits!
magine taking ANY horse and taming and training him in as little as 4-6 hours... yes 4-6 hours...
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 Meditation & breathing techniques How energy works Chakras including equine diagram Preparation Working with higher connections Emotional/Soul connection with the horse Hand positions Scanning How long to give healing Visual indications When to give healing When not to give healing How many sessions Completing the session Clearing the horse Clearing yourself Things you may experience What to do if the horse is resisting |
People Study Why your own horse might not accept healing from you Listening to the horse Psychic impressions Anger & Aggression Rescue horses Psychic protection Advanced techniques for increasing energy Developing your confidence Positive thinking Spirit guides & spirit animals Distance healing UK Veterinary Act Example consent form Insurance Charges Paperwork & accounting Marketing your practice Continuous professional development | |||
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Pilates For Horse Riders
Are You The Best Rider You Can Be?……Do You Have Areas Of Weakness? or
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How to Train Your Horse and Stop its Bad Habits!!
How to Train Your Horse and Stop its Bad Habits... Within Minutes... Even If You've Never Done Any Horse Training Before
Renowned horse trainer reveals the secrets 300,000 horse owners have successfully used to train their horse
I
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